For gardeners wanting an alternative to chemical sprays, a soil-applie…
Whole peanuts should be avoided if fledglings are likely to be fed them directly, as they present a choking risk; a mesh feeder that breaks nuts into smaller pieces is the safer option. Hygiene is just as important as food choice: cleaning feeders regularly and moving their position from time to time helps reduce the build-up of bacteria that can spread between visiting birds.
Easy access matters most. A shallow, gently sloping edge lets amphibians move in and out of the water without difficulty, while steep, hard-edged ponds can be surprisingly difficult for them to use. Nearby damp, shady spots, a log pile or a compost heap close to the pond, give them somewhere to shelter and hibernate once they leave the water for the colder months.
Winter care is really about restraint. Amphibians often spend the coldest months dormant in mud at the pond plants bottom, so the pond is best left undisturbed rather than cleared out or heavily managed during this period. If the surface freezes over, gently melting a small area with warm water is a gentler approach than breaking the ice directly above where they may be sheltering.
For gardeners wanting an alternative to chemical sprays, a soil-applied option is worth considering as a first step, and a good starting point is a range of slug nematodes for gardens suited to the pest in question.
Placement decides whether the house gets used at all. A fixed position at around waist to head height, facing south or south-east to catch the morning sun, and sheltered from driving rain and strong wind, gives insects the stable conditions they need. Once occupied, the house is best left undisturbed through the nesting and overwintering period.
A pond set up with the right planting and shelter from the outset tends to attract amphibians naturally over time. Many gardeners begin with a considered selection of pond wildlife equipment chosen to suit the size of pond they are working with.
Easy access matters most. A shallow, gently sloping edge lets amphibians move in and out of the water without difficulty, while steep, hard-edged ponds can be surprisingly difficult for them to use. Nearby damp, shady spots, a log pile or a compost heap close to the pond, give them somewhere to shelter and hibernate once they leave the water for the colder months.
Winter care is really about restraint. Amphibians often spend the coldest months dormant in mud at the pond plants bottom, so the pond is best left undisturbed rather than cleared out or heavily managed during this period. If the surface freezes over, gently melting a small area with warm water is a gentler approach than breaking the ice directly above where they may be sheltering.
For gardeners wanting an alternative to chemical sprays, a soil-applied option is worth considering as a first step, and a good starting point is a range of slug nematodes for gardens suited to the pest in question.
Placement decides whether the house gets used at all. A fixed position at around waist to head height, facing south or south-east to catch the morning sun, and sheltered from driving rain and strong wind, gives insects the stable conditions they need. Once occupied, the house is best left undisturbed through the nesting and overwintering period.
A pond set up with the right planting and shelter from the outset tends to attract amphibians naturally over time. Many gardeners begin with a considered selection of pond wildlife equipment chosen to suit the size of pond they are working with.
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